A Sense of Wholeness: Le Ngok
Known for wielding imaginative design to explore topics like overconsumption and body image, Carla Zhang, the mind behind eclectic brand Le Ngok, now shifts her narrative toward mental health.
PHOTOGRAPHY Millen Gela
CREATIVE DIRECTION Carla Zhang
Carla Zhang is refreshingly frank about the state of her headspace. “My Fall/Winter 2024 collection, There’s Nothing Wrong, reflects my personal journey with anxiety, while acknowledging that many people today are quietly facing similar struggles,” she explains. “Through this, I want to offer a message of empathy and solidarity, reminding others that they are not alone.”
Her references range from the subtle to the literal: multi- purpose zippers and neon-hued toggles allow the wearer to play with form according to their mood, while the collection’s star look features a floor-sweeping cape dotted by plastic orbs filled with colorful prescription medication pills.
“It’s about embracing the highs, the lows, and everything in between—integrating contrasting elements to ultimately find a sense of wholeness,” Zhang continues.
What piqued your fascination with the unique textures, materials, and techniques you used for this collection? Exploring unique materials, techniques, and textures has always been at the core of Le Ngok. Every single piece is infused with meaning, reflecting my design language. For example, in Look 7, the pills are inspired by prescription medications, and the headpiece is crafted from pill bottles. In Look 4, which represents insomnia, the cape is inspired by a blanket, while the pillow features an embroidered clock design made out of yarn.
I want my audience to feel seen and comforted the moment they see the collection; it’s my way of offering them a warm embrace and a sense of solace in a difficult phase of their lives.
Could you tell us more about your brand? How did it begin?
Le Ngok, which I officially launched early last year, is a fashion label deeply rooted in creating meaningful storytelling through the fusion of mixed media and innovative design. The vision for Le Ngok began when I was still in fashion school, where I spent time developing strategies and concepts and experimenting with different materials through design projects to bring my ideas to life.
Could you tell us a little bit about your career background?
Before diving headfirst into my brand, I had a stint working in an industry totally different from fashion. Back in college, I managed to juggle my academics, participate in fashion competitions, and take on multiple part-time jobs. Fast forward to April 2023, Le Ngok came to life, and it has been a journey I have not looked back from since.
What are your dreams for Le Ngok?
Currently, with operations based in both Manila and Shanghai, my focus is on constantly evolving and refining the brand’s vision while continuously pushing the boundaries of design.
Looking to the future, one of my personal goals is to expand Le Ngok in the international market, bringing its core values and design philosophy to a broader global audience.
Your most recent show at Bench Fashion Week was unforgettable, with an interpretative dancer moving alongside the models walking down the runway.
Yes, this time I sought to explore the realm of performance art, which became one of the foundations of my vision. Every detail— from the flow and music to the design elements, color transitions, and dance choreography—was carefully considered to reflect the various stages of my personal battle with anxiety. The fusion of these elements was a powerful depiction of that journey, and I am deeply grateful to Bench for offering me the platform to bring that vision to life.
That said, could you walk us through your creative process?
My creative process begins with inspiration and concept development, where I immerse myself in research and create
initial sketches to shape the collection. From there, I move on to exploring fabrics, materials, textures, and colors that align with the vision. I then proceed with prototyping and creating samples to assess whether my vision can be realized. The final stage is where I focus on refining the details, the unique finishing touches that tie the entire collection together ensuring that every piece is cohesive.
What are your long-term influences? What are the things that have inspired you for years?
I strive to live a purposeful and meaningful life, and that drives me to translate my experiences into inspirations for my work. The decision to push for a specific concept comes after reflecting on how a particular experience has shaped my perspective. Additionally, I draw inspiration from my travels, philosophy, various forms of art, and culture.
What are your current influences?
Since expanding my brand to Shanghai, my current influences revolve around having a deeper understanding of the local business landscape, extensive market research, and adjusting to the international fashion calendar. These experiences are guiding me to align Le Ngok’s brand identity with the ever-changing fashion industry while retaining its intrinsic worth.
How has your work evolved with your personal growth?
My work has always been deeply tied to my personal growth. As I evolve, so does Le Ngok. Initially, my motivation was to establish a brand around self-expression, but it has since grown into something much larger than that. Today, my vision goes beyond just the collections I design. I aim to build a team that fosters meaningful connections for everyone involved while continuing to create pieces that resonate with wearers for years to come.
MODEL Julian Culas
MAKEUP Chris Rosales
ASSISTANT Cheyenne Sarol