Soaring Savoir-Faire: Tiffany & Co.

The brooch, a striking piece of jewelry to punctuate an ensemble, actually had very humble and functional beginnings. Conceived during the Bronze Age, they were once unassuming ornaments used to fasten cloaks and other garments during the winter. As craftsmen were able to elevate their skills, so did the complexity of their designs, and brooches became more than just a simple accessory that could pin pieces of clothing together.

The Renaissance period cemented the idea of the brooch as a bold and decorative accent. It became such a consequential piece of jewelry that it emerged as a symbol of style, culture, and even wealth. Brooches were first associated with aristocrats and royalty before trickling down to a wider clientele who simply wanted to make a statement with an emblematic piece of jewelry. In the 20th century, both men and women broke the initial rules of placement for the brooch and began pinning the piece wherever they wanted a touch of elegance — be it the base of a gown strap, collars or lapels, and even necklines of blouses.

There’s no denying that the versatility of the brooch has no limits. Artisans could express their unhampered creativity, as the piece is practically a wearable sculpture. This idea of the brooch as art could not ring truer than with Tiffany & Co.’s Bird on the Rock. Conceptualized by French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger for the American high jeweler, the Bird on the Rock high jewelry brooch was first introduced in 1965 and has been an iconic signature ever since. Inspired by a cockatoo Schlumberger encountered during his travels to Asia and the Caribbean, its playful design and ostentatious aesthetic truly echoes the fantastical and whimsical heritage of Tiffany.

Now, the emblem is reimagined for the 21st century through a spirited reinterpretation that shows Schlumberger’s unwavering creative vision. Called the “Rainbow Bird on the Rock” collection, the exemplary brooch is given new life through unexpected gemstones and diamonds in kaleidoscopic colors and the use of paillonné enamel, a complex process whereby layers of translucent colored enamel are fired over 24k gold foil, resulting in translucent, vivid hues. It’s important to note that Schlumberger is credited for the revival of this age-old 19th-century technique that champions the endless possibilities of color theory when it comes to jewelry design. Because at the heart of this capsule collection, as the word “rainbow” suggests, is the mixing and matching of hues to create unexpected pairings that yield unapologetically eye-catching and elegant results.

There are eight pieces to this capsule — each featuring a unique gemstone and bird design perched on top. Though a hint of blue binds all the pieces together, there is an undeniable uniqueness to each brooch, making them inevitable conversation-starters no matter your garb. Take for example the pieces featuring tanzanite and aquamarine, where the bird birched is made of different bold- colored stones, pearls, and diamonds. Both pieces took over 300 hours to craft (this includes the manufacturing time, enameling, stone-cutting, setting and polishing) and are meticulously created to make each detail standout clearly and beautifully.

Then there’s the black opal piece that took Tiffany & Co. artisans over a span of 406 hours to create. The opal itself is over 47-carats and is adorned with emeralds, blue and pink sapphires, and diamonds. Another black opal piece also adorns the collection with a gemstone that’s over 35-carats and highlights a bird made out of dark fire opal, and similar blue and pink sapphires and clear-cut diamonds.

It’s clear that Schlumberger’s expansive creative mind never ceases, as seen in the Rainbow Bird on the Rock capsule. This collection is testament to Tiffany’s constant desire to explore the endless possibilities of jewelry innovation, and their commitment to create art in the unexpected.